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Sabine Nicholas
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Posted on Sunday, March 21, 2004 - 07:58 am:   

I have an old watch and would like to obtain a value and method of selling. It is an 18k Cartier men's tank (Louis?), purchased in Europe about 35/40 years ago, with 3 hallmarks on back (along with serial number), made in Paris (not Swiss), green hands with matching green leather strap, white face with black roman numerals. Can anyone help?
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Zaf
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Posted on Monday, March 22, 2004 - 09:53 am:   

Sabine,

The Cartier can be anwhere from $1500 to several thousand, sometimes more. It all depends. Do you have a picture of the watch? It also helps to have a picture of the movement. To a large degree the manufacturer of the movement determines value.

Zaf
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Nina L Pozvonkova
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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 04:44 pm:   

I have pink gold pocket watch HY Moser & CIE, # 44746. it was dropped and is not working. I was told to fix it would cost $600. Can anyone tell me whether it is worth fixing? Thank you in advance
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Zaf
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Posted on Thursday, February 24, 2005 - 02:17 pm:   

Do you have photos? Is it 18k gold? What size? Does it have other functions in addition to the time function?
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Mark Finn
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Posted on Thursday, March 03, 2005 - 06:59 am:   

Zaf,

Since this subject already came up, I'd like the opportunity to ask about my watch as well.

I have a 50s Cartier Ceinture (similar to the ladies' model in your price guide) with an EWC movement. It's approx. 25mmx25mm.

Questions:

Is this a men's or ladies' model? Literature about Cartier (Gordon) says that in the 80s there were two sizes, with this size being ladies', and the men's watch somewhat larger. Than again, in the 70s this was the men's size. How about the 50s?

You say that the manufacturer of the movement defines the value. How about EWC?

Do know of a souce where I could see/ask about the case/mvmt numbers and define the year of manufacture and other info?

Thanks,

Mark
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Zaf
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Posted on Thursday, March 03, 2005 - 11:55 am:   

The EWC movement is highly desirable, from that period, it would most likely be a high grade rendition of an already excellent Jaeger-LeCOultre movement.

Wht you have working against you is the size of the watch, at 25x25. It was mens watch back then, but by today's standards it woould be a Unisex or almost a ladies watch.

Not sure where you could find the exact manufacture date other than writing Cartier. If you show me a shot of the EWC/JLC movement, I could probably date that or give you a range.

Zaf
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Mark Finn
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Posted on Sunday, March 06, 2005 - 08:25 am:   

I opened up the Cartier for the first time, and was a little surprised. The movement is 100% similar to EWC calibers in the Cartier book by George Gordon, but it's signed Cartier, not EWC. The mvmt number is 1760621, hardly visible in the picture. Does this affect the value? What about production date, any idea?

Also, I was wondering about the dial. It is a little cracked at the edges, but only in areas where you can't see it when it's assembled. Could the dial be enamel? I tried to take a picture a little tilted, so that you can see the reflections. The numbers are a little raised and the dial has a smooth shiny surface, either enamel, or thick paint on the base metal plate.

Another interesting finding: the deployment buckle is rose gold underneath the (original)strap and yellow gold in the actual visible buckle. Funny.

Thanks for any info you can give about this watch,
Mark



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Zaf
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Posted on Monday, March 07, 2005 - 01:11 pm:   

The dial looks like enamel paint rather than a fired porcelain enamel dial. The movement looks like a JLC caliber, it has all of the charasteristics, similar to the caliber 480, but has a slightly different bridge construction.

I think an EWC stamped movement, is probably beter than a Cartier alone, but I'm guessing here.
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sassycents1
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Posted on Wednesday, November 09, 2005 - 11:51 pm:   

I inherited a vintage Cartier ladies 18k gold with 2 very pink rubies double rope type braclet with small face and unusal side dial. This does not currently work but I did bring to Cartier. It is most likely the spring and the cost to repair approx. 400.00. It also has a serial # that begins with a 9. I do not know how to open watch so I have no idea of the movement. The sales person did call the manager because of the unusal side dial movement. I wrote to Cariter twice and have not heard anything back. It been a good year. I beleive this watch to be in the 40's could be very late 30's. Can you help with any historical info and approx. value? If not can direct me to another web site on vintage cartier watch. Thanks
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Zaf
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Posted on Thursday, November 10, 2005 - 02:27 pm:   

I'll need a photo, thanks.
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GregB
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Posted on Friday, November 11, 2005 - 05:52 am:   

I think when you use the term "side dial", what you're really trying to say is that it is a "backwind". The winding crown is mounted on the back and protrudes a little past the back edge of the watch so you can wind and set time. If I am guessing correctly, what you probably have is a ladies Cartier DuoPlan which was manufactured for Cartier by Jaeger-LeCoultre during the 1930s - 1950s.

Am I correct in the way I describe the watch?

Greg
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sassycents1
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Posted on Friday, November 11, 2005 - 09:42 pm:   

Thanks Greg for the info. Yes I beleive you described perfectly. So it's a backwind. Does that mean you turn clock wise and counter clockwise? I need to take pictures again. I will post once I get the pictures taken. Should I get cartier to repair or should I just leave it alone?
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sassycents1
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Posted on Friday, November 11, 2005 - 11:17 pm:   

I have some more info on the watch that I did not mention. The face is round with roman numerals, 18K is also on clasp. It is 18K double snake bracelet. The # on the back of watch is 91864 (Zaf can you date this?)
I will get pictures posted as soon as I can. But I do have more questions I would like answered.

Upon reading other forum this may be rose gold. Does this effect the value of the watch? If so approx. how much?

Since I do not know how to open the watch should I bring to Cartier or an antique watch dealer to have opened? I will get pictures of the movement at that time.

I did not hear very good comments on vintage watch repair from Cartier. Should I just leave the watch alone?

The rubies are very pink. Could it be another gem that is very pink?

Thanks help is really appreciated.
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Zaf
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Posted on Monday, November 14, 2005 - 12:30 pm:   

I can't date the watch via the case serial number, but it's likely to be a 1940s. If the face is round, it is unlikely to be a Duoplan but a ladies back wind watch, which is a little less collectible.

Generally speaking, I have the ability to service these watches if you are interested. It'll be a fraction of the Cartier cost.

Zaf
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sassycents
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Posted on Friday, December 09, 2005 - 12:46 pm:   

<\p>OK, I finally have some pictures and more info. We did not open the watch for it had 3 little screws and we did not have the correct jewlers tools. Also my friend does not know if it is a spring or a gear is not catching. It winds but does not catch. The glass is beveled and the watch face is 1 cm while the watch and braclet measures 7". It is also hallmarked on the side of case and doubled hallmarked on the clasp. See the last photo. It alsomost looks like a side view of a falcon. 18K is also on the clasp. It was very hard for us to see for our loops our not professional jewlers and my camera on goes 3'x zoom. OK what more can you tell me. Can you give me a ball park figure as to its value. I do not know what I am going to do at this point. It depends on a few factors.<p>Hallmark on side of watch case
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Zaf
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Posted on Friday, December 09, 2005 - 07:37 pm:   

Looks to me like it is a French market Cartier as the Eagle head Hallmarks indicate French Market.

Is the bracelet stamped Cartier in any way or is it generic?
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sassycents
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Posted on Monday, December 12, 2005 - 02:48 am:   

The bracklet has no Cartier stamp, at least I could not find it. Now if you look at next to the last picuture they is another # 2110. It is heavy and solid gold. I do not know it's weight. I am going to try and get the back opened and will bring my camera with me. Now I want to know what the insides look like. I know that this is not common watch. I think my watch may just need to be cleaned. It is really pretty on the wrist. What do you think about the stones?
I need to insure. I am estimating the value at 4,000.00+. Ballpark estimate as I am learning, what do you think.
In any case this watch has got me very interest in other watches. I just can not beleive all the parts and detail that are involved.
I am now opening all my other watches that I picked up or obtained through my years. I will post pics of some of these in other forums.
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Zaf
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Posted on Monday, December 12, 2005 - 02:29 pm:   

I think $4000 is a good "replacement cost" type of insurance value, but I think when it comes to actually sell something like this, value will be more in the $2000 to $3000 range. The watch is bascially a ladies Jaeger-LeCoultre backwind retailed by Cartier.
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sassycents
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Posted on Monday, December 12, 2005 - 09:10 pm:   

Thanks Zak. I will keep and enjoy for now. Unless I need money for medical bills. I will most likely pass down to my neice. I now have info and history for her. I appreciate your knowledge and help. Sandy
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Zaf
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Posted on Monday, December 12, 2005 - 09:17 pm:   

You are welcome. Nice to see pieces like that staying "in the family".
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GregB
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Posted on Tuesday, December 13, 2005 - 12:36 pm:   

Sandy,

In your text, you mentioned that you were going to try to open the case on this watch. I don't recommend that inexperienced individuals try to open these backwind cases, but if you do try, please note that the screw holding the winding crown on has reverse threads. If you try to remove it by unscrewing in the standard counterclockwise direction, you will strip the delicate solid gold threads and the crown will never stay on again. I can't tell you how many JLC/Cartier backwinds I buy that are shipped to me this way... where an amatuer or unknowledgeable watchmaker has stripped the crown screw threads by turning the wrong way. The other 2 remaining screws holding the back on have standard threads, but need to be treated gently when tightening. The soft solid gold screws will strip if you try to overtighten. Just make them snug.

The movement in your watch will be a standard caliber 426 movement manufactured by Jaeger-LeCoultre and probably stamped E.W.C.C. for "European Watch and Clock Company", which is Cartier's signature on their earlier movements. Parts donor movements are readily available on eBay and elsewhere at reasonable prices (JLC versions). Prices are reasonable because these small backwinds seem depressed in the market. Many solid gold JLC versions are going for $200 and under, apparently because women desire physically larger watches right now, to fit with current fashion.

You describe that the watch winds, but "isn't catching". I'm not sure whether you're saying that after winding, the crown begins to unwind, going backwards until it is fully unwound (indicating that the click is not catching in the ratchet wheel... a simple fix or part replacement) or whether you're saying that the watch winds and winds forever, indicating that the mainspring is broken. Neither repair is very difficult.

Regards,
Greg
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sassycents
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Posted on Tuesday, December 13, 2005 - 11:08 pm:   

Wow Greg Thanks so much for all that info. I was going to bring to a professional jewlery/watch dealer repairer to open. I do know that you need to trust your jewler. I was planning to supervisor this being done. I am just going to skip and leave it alone. After all my research I fiqured it would be an easy fix for the professional.
I know what you mean on larger watch styles. I need larger ones just because I am going blind.
In any case it is a very pretty danity and delicate on the wrist. This should not be worn tight. I am going to let my niece decide if she would like it now. Otherwise I will just leave for her and I will wear as a braclet. What ever the case might be she will know all the history and background info. No garage or estate item on this watch...
Not expert but this watch's weight and stones would bring more as scrape.
I am insuring but now I am confused as to repalcement value. I think I will bring to Heritage Auction and see what they say.
I am a jack of all trades but coins and watches are not one of them... I am really enjoying all this watch research but another area I do not need to be in.

DOES ANYONE KNOW WHY MY TEXT IS NOT WRAPPING. DID I DO SOMETHING WRONG?
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Zaf
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Posted on Tuesday, December 13, 2005 - 11:13 pm:   

Hi. The text isn't wrapping due to the big
pictures...you can just hit enter and wrap the
text around manually in that case.