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Helbert
New member Username: Helbert
Post Number: 1 Registered: 09-2010
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Thursday, September 23, 2010 - 02:01 am: | |
Hi all I've been quite interested in getting a vintage JLC Memovox lately, so I've been lurking on this forum a bit. This is my first post. I've found some quite nice examples on eBay, but I've read that there are a lot of fake/franken Memovoxes out there, so can you guys teach me how to ID or spot a fake one. Here's one of the really nice ones I've seen: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300468471827&ssPageName=STR K:MEBIDX:IT#ht_2474wt_956 I've seen a lot of examples with snap on casebacks, but this one is a screwback. Is it an odd thing? Please advise. Many thanks |
   
Gregb
Advanced Member Username: Gregb
Post Number: 311 Registered: 10-2006
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Thursday, September 23, 2010 - 03:48 am: | |
The watch is quite authentic and the dial is original (not refinished). The crowns appear to be replacements, but that's not a huge issue. One thing you really need to be careful of with early gold-filled models is to look for wear-thru. This one is polished, so it will be hard to spot until it begins to tarnish (if present) a few days after polishing. Nothing unusual about the screw back. Many models were made this way. |
   
Helbert
New member Username: Helbert
Post Number: 2 Registered: 09-2010
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Thursday, September 23, 2010 - 11:45 am: | |
Thanks Gregb. Any tips on how to spot a fake Memovox? (eg what are the main things to look for?) Also do you know what the reasonable price for one of these are? |
   
Gregb
Advanced Member Username: Gregb
Post Number: 312 Registered: 10-2006
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Thursday, September 23, 2010 - 02:03 pm: | |
Tips: 1) Stay completely away from worldtime dial versions unless you're an expert. 90% or more of the worldtime versions I see are simply standard versions with homemade worldtime dials. 2) Buy the seller, not the watch. Unless you're experienced yourself, it pays to buy from sellers who are experienced and know their inventory well (sell that brand/model frequently) and have a good track record. Why not buy from Zaf here at Classicwatch/FinerTimes? His prices are quite reasonable and he usually has a good inventory. 3) Don't buy non-running watches, hoping to have them fixed. Some parts (especially on automatics)can be difficult to source. 4) Watch out for watches that have been converted from pocket alarms. Common mainly by South American sellers, they'll buy the inexpensive Memovox Pocket alarms and modify the case or re-case the movement to convert them for wristwatch use. These "frankenwatch" conversions often have pivoting, swing lugs. Not much other "generic" advice I can give that applies to all models. Authentication just requires being familiar with each model and knowing what to look for. Value varies widely, based upon model and condition: $450 for a good used 1950s gold-filled manual model up to $20,000 for a 1960s Polaris automatic. |
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